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affaire" (Dr. L. Martineau, La Prostitution clan- nology of the milliner pictures, see Ronald Pick- i83 destine, Paris, 1885, p. 82). vance, Degas 1879, National Galleries of Scotland Notes 23. "Celles-la exploitent les debuts; ceux-ci and the Edinburgh Festival Society, 1979, no. 72, to Pages viennent ensuite" (Lecour, La Prostitution, p. 63. For a recent discussion of Degas's depiction 120—28 p. 204). of milliners that differs from mine, see Colin B. 24. Reuss, La Prostitution, p. 181. Bailey's entry on At the Milliner's, which Bailey 25. "Qui dit marchande a la toilette, dit quelque dates to 1881 in Masterpieces of Impressionism and peu proxenete: La debitrice insoluble n'aura qu'a Post-Impressionism: The Annenberg Collection, preter 1'oreille aux conseils de sa creanciere, qui Philadelphia, 1989, pp. 18 — 21. saura lui menager 1'occasion de se liberer envers A complex period commentary on one of elle, en lui procurant des clients, soit chez elle, soit Degas's such pictures is that written by his English dans une maison de passe" (ibid., p. 182). crony George Moore, who in 1891 described a 26. "Celles qui ont un certain capital devant milliner's window as depicted by Degas like this: elles ouvrent des magasins de gants, de par- "full of the dim, sweet, sad poetry of female work. fumerie, de vins de champagne, de curiosites, For are not those bonnets the signs and symbols d'objets en ruolz, de modes, etc.; les autres se font, of long hours of weariness and dejection? and the en apparence du moins, blanchisseuses, lingeres, woman that gathers them iron-handed fashion has couturieres, fleuristes, marchandes de journaux. moulded and set her seal upon. See the fat woman La police surveille tous ces magasins interlopes. trying on the bonnet before the pier-glass, the Elle a beau les fermer, ils renaissent ailleurs; tous shopwomen around her. How the lives of those sont munis d'une arriere-boutique qui sert de lieu poor women are epitomized and depicted in a ges- de rendezvous" (ibid., pp. 184-85). ture! Years of servility and obeisance to customers, 27. See Joel Isaacson, The Crisis of Impression- all the life of the fashionable woman's shop is ism, 1878-1882, Ann Arbor, Mich., 1980, p. 17. there" (George Moore, Impressions and Opinions, 28. David S. Brooke and Henri Zerner, James London, 1891, p. 316; quoted in Theresa Ann Jacques Joseph Tissot, 1836—1902: A Retrospective Gronberg, "Femmes de Brasserie," Art History 7, Exhibition, Providence, Rhode Island School of no. 3 [Sept. 1984]: 331). Design Museum of Art, 1968, entries 35 and 39. 34. "Aucun art n'est aussi peu spontane que le 29. Ibid., entry 35. mien. Ce que je fais est le resultat de la reflexion 30. Ibid., entry 39. et de 1'etude des grands maitres; de 1'inspiration, 31. Denis Rouart and Daniel Wildenstein, la spontaneite, le temperament, je ne sais rien. II Edouard Manet: Catalogue raisonne, Lausanne, faut refaire dix fois, cent fois le meme sujet. Rien 1975, vol. i, no. 373. Rouart and Wildenstein re- en art ne doit ressembler a un accident, meme le port that the painting has been retouched, thus mouvement" (Edgar Degas, quoted in Jacques problematizing any discussion of the picture's ob- Lassaigne and Fiorello Minervino, Tout Voeuvre ject qualities. According to the authors, The Milli- peint de Degas, Paris, 1974, p. 13). ner, used in the 1883 inventory of Manet's work, 35. "fin a millinery shop] de 5 a 7, c'est le coup was the original title. The present owner, the Cali- de feu, le tout le monde sur le pont, le branle-bas fornia Palace of the Legion of Honor in San Fran- des essayages, des recriminations, des enthousi- cisco, prefers At the Milliner. asmes, des cris, des evanouissements, des coleres, 32. S. Lane Faison, Jr., identifies the woman des jalousies, des deceptions. . . . Degas . . . ne as a customer. See his "Edouard Manet (1832 — depassa point la courte anecdote. Ses peintures et 1883), The Milliner," Bulletin of the California ses dessins de modistes ne sont point de savou- Palace of the Legion of Honor (Aug. 1957), n.p. reuses reussites. . . . Qu'il ne puisse pas vous don- 33. Degas did about eighteen pastels and paint- ner, Degas. 1'aspect d'ensemble de toutes ces ings on this subject between ca. 1882 and 1898; femelles, soit! . . . mais, en verite, il eut pu aller ten of them were done prior to 1890. See P. A. au dela du document photographique, ce peintre Lemoisne, Degas et son oeuvre, Paris, 1946-49, dit de la 'verite moderne.' ... II n'a done jamais vols. 2 and 3, nos. 681, 682, 683, 705, 709, 729, consideree, Degas, ce que peut etre dans la forma- 774, 827, 832, 835, 1,023, 1,110, 1,315, 1,316, tion de la pensee feminine!" (Gustave Coquiot, 1,317, 1,318, 1,319. On the question of the chro- Degas, 2d ed., Paris, 1924, pp. 132 — 34).

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