portent que depuis peu. C'est le rebut des bah de 5. Sennett, Public Man, pp. 166—67. 165 barriere qui, alleche par Pimpunite, a fait sa de- 6. Michael B. Miller, The Bon Marche: Bour- Notes scente dans Paris." geois Culture and the Department Store, 1869— to Pages 1. Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of the Leisure 1920, Princeton, 1981. Class: An Economic Study of Institutions [1899], 7. Sennett, Public Man, pp. 141—49; Elizabeth 56-59 New York, 1931, p. 167. Wilson, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Moder- 2. Richard Sennett, The Fall of Public Man: nity, London, 1985, pp. 144-52; and Russell On the Social Psychology of Capitalism, New York, Lewis, "Everything under One Roof: World's Fairs 1977, p. 164; and Lisa Tickner, The Spectacle and Department Stores in Paris and Chicago," of Women: Imagery of the Suffrage Campaign, Chicago History 12, no. 3 (Fall 1983): 28—47. 1907—1914, Chicago, 1988, p. 169. 8. Elaine S. Abelson, "Urban Women and the 3. Alexandre Parent-Duchatelet, De la prosti- Emergence of Shopping" and "The World of the tution dans la ville de Paris, Paris, 1836, vol. i, Store," When Ladies Go A-Thieving: Middle-Class pp. 362 — 63. The policy cited by Parent-Duchatelet Shoplifters in the Victorian Department Store, New applied, of course, to the 18305, but the same gen- York, 1989, pp. 13 — 62. On the continuation of this eral code remained in force at least until the late trend into the twentieth century, especially in the i88os. This summary for instance was written in U.S., see Mary Ann Doane, The Desire to Desire: 1888: "Les filles soumises ne doivent pas racoler The Woman's Film of the 19408, Bloomington, Ind., sur la voie publique en taille, en cheveux ou dans 1987, p. 27. les toilettes de nature a se faire remarquer. . . . 9. Georg Simmel, "Fashion" [1904], in On Indi- Des tenues par trop affichantes motivent 1'arresta- viduality and Social Forms, Donald N. Levine (ed.), tion" — Registered prostitutes may not solicit in Chicago, 1971, pp. 309, 310. Theodore Zeldin's public without a coat, without a hat, or in any shrewd observation (France, 1848-1945, vol. i, clothing that will attract attention. . . . Outfits that Ambition, Love and Politics, Oxford, 1973, p. 234) are too flashy will occasion arrests (Gustave Mace, also applies: "The simultaneous idealisation and La Police parisienne: Le Gibier de Saint-Lazare. repression of women . . . was one of the ways by Paris, 1888, pp. 290-91). I believe that Alain Cor- which French society developed its peculiar char- bin commits his only factual error on the issue of acteristics. Repression was compensated for and proscribed hatlessness. In his Filles de noce, he mitigated by giving women considerable power in wrote (p. 129): "Elles [les filles en carte] doivent strictly limited fields." eviter les toilettes comme les allures provocantes 10. Sheila Rowbotham, Women, Resistance and et ne peuvent circuler qu' 'en cheveux'" (Regis- Revolution, New York, 1972, p. 39. tered prostitutes must avoid provocative toilettes 11. Wilson, Adorned in Dreams, p. 29. and ways of walking and can only circulate "in 12. "Quel poete oserait, dans la peinture de their hair," or hatless). In her review of Filles de plaisir cause par 1'apparition d'une beaute, separer noce, Michelle Perrot, eminent French historian, la femme de son costume? Quel est 1'homme qui, repeated the error when she wrote: "On leur in- dans la rue, au theatre, au bois, n'a pas joui, de la terdisait le racolage et le port du chapeau, signe maniere la plus desinteressee, d'une toilette sa- de bourgeoise" — Forbidden to them are solicita- vamment composee, et n'en a pas emporte une tion and the wearing of a hat, sign of a bourgeois image inseparable de la beaute de celle a qui elle woman (Perrot, "Les Filles de noce," LHistoire, appartenait, faisant ainsi des deux, de la femme et no. 9 [Feb. 1979]: 83). Corbin repeated this mis- de la robe, une totalite indivisible?" (Charles Bau- take in a recent essay: "In public spaces, the delaire, "Le Peintre de la vie moderne," [1863], prostitute will not wear a hat; she must circulate Curiosites esthetiques, Vart romantique, et autres bare-headed" (Corbin, "Commercial Sexuality in oeuvres critiques, Paris: Editions Garnier Freres, Nineteenth-Century France: A System of Images 1962, p. 489). and Regulations," Representations 14 [Spring 13. Simone de Beauvoir, The Second Sex [1949], 1986]: 217). H. M. Parshley (trans, and ed.), New York, 1952, 4. See John Berger, Ways of Seeing, London, p. 148. 1972, pp. 45 — 64; and Anne Hollander, Seeing 14. Wilson, Adorned in Dreams, p. 29. Through Clothes, New York, 1978. 15. Ibid., p. 32.